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Swimming, dancing and walking take 'avere', not 'essere'

Many English speakers learn an early rule of thumb: Italian verbs of movement take essere in the past, as in sono andato and sono arrivata. The rule is useful, but it misleads you with a large group of everyday verbs. Verbs that describe a way of moving or a physical activity, such as camminare, nuotare, ballare and sciare, normally take avere: ho camminato, ho nuotato, ho ballato.

English uses the same auxiliary for every verb (I have walked, I have gone), so it gives you no clue about which verbs belong in which group. Learners who see that a verb involves movement often reach for essere and produce forms like sono camminato, which sound wrong to Italians.

Word list
ballareA1 to dance ho ballato = I danced (even for a woman, no agreement) camminareA1 to walk ho camminato fino a... = I walked as far as... correreA1 to run ho corso per un'ora = I ran for an hour (but sono corso a casa, with a goal) nuotareA1 to swim ho nuotato = I swam viaggiareA1 to travel hanno viaggiato = they traveled volareA1 to fly abbiamo volato con Alitalia = we flew with Alitalia (but è volato via = flew off) danzareA2 to dance hanno danzato = they danced (more formal than ballare) passeggiareA2 to walk abbiamo passeggiato = we went for a walk saltareA2 to jump ha saltato più in alto di tutti = jumped highest (but è saltato giù = jumped down) sciareA2 to ski abbiamo sciato = we skied gattonareB2 to crawl ha gattonato = crawled (the baby) girareB2 to wander abbiamo girato per il centro = we wandered around the center navigareB2 to sail abbiamo navigato lungo la costa = we sailed along the coast pattinareB2 to skate abbiamo pattinato sul ghiaccio = we went ice skating strisciareB2 to crawl ha strisciato = crawled, slithered surfareB2 to surf ha surfato = he/she surfed vagareB2 to wander ha vagato per... = wandered around... girovagareC1 to wander abbiamo girovagato per... = we roamed around... zoppicareC1 to limp ha zoppicato = he/she limped
How it works

Think about what the verb focuses on. Verbs like andare, venire, partire and arrivare describe going from one point to another: leaving, arriving, changing place. These take essere. The verbs in this article describe the activity itself, meaning how you move, for how long and with what effort. The movement is something you do, like a sport or a hobby, and these verbs take avere.

A handy test: if you can naturally add per un'ora (for an hour) and the sentence is about the activity rather than about getting somewhere, expect avere. Even when a place is mentioned, as in Abbiamo camminato fino alla stazione, these verbs keep avere.

Sono andata al mare e ho nuotato per un'ora.
(I went to the seaside and swam for an hour.)
The words
Walking and wandering

The basic walking verbs are camminare (to walk, the act of moving on your feet) and passeggiare (to stroll, to go for a walk). Zoppicare means to limp. Vagare and girovagare mean to wander or roam with no fixed goal, which is exactly why they take avere. Gattonare is what babies do on all fours, and strisciare is crawling close to the ground, like a snake.

Abbiamo camminato fino alla stazione.
(We walked as far as the station.)
Domenica abbiamo passeggiato lungo il fiume.
(On Sunday we went for a walk along the river.)
Dopo la caduta, Marco ha zoppicato per una settimana.
(After the fall, Marco limped for a week.)
Il cane ha vagato per il quartiere tutta la notte.
(The dog wandered around the neighborhood all night.)
In vacanza abbiamo girovagato per le strade di Napoli.
(On vacation we roamed the streets of Naples.)
Mia figlia ha gattonato molto presto, a sei mesi.
(My daughter started crawling very early, at six months.)
Il serpente ha strisciato sotto la porta.
(The snake crawled under the door.)
Sports and dance

Sports and dance verbs are the clearest cases: nuotare (to swim), ballare and the more formal danzare (to dance), sciare (to ski), pattinare (to skate) and surfare (to surf).

Ieri ho nuotato e poi ho ballato tutta la sera.
(Yesterday I swam and then danced all evening.)
Gli sposi hanno danzato insieme al centro della sala.
(The bride and groom danced together in the middle of the hall.)
A Natale abbiamo sciato e pattinato sul ghiaccio.
(At Christmas we skied and went ice skating.)
In Portogallo Luca ha surfato ogni mattina.
(In Portugal Luca surfed every morning.)
Travelling

Viaggiare (to travel) and navigare (to sail) also describe an ongoing activity rather than an arrival, so they take avere too.

Hanno viaggiato molto e hanno navigato lungo la costa greca.
(They traveled a lot and sailed along the Greek coast.)
Watch out

Because these verbs take avere, the past participle does not agree with the subject. A woman says ho ballato, not sono ballata, and a group says abbiamo sciato, never siamo sciati.

Anna ha ballato con tutti i suoi amici.
(Anna danced with all her friends.)

Notice the word normally in the rule. A few movement verbs, such as correre, saltare and volare, switch between avere and essere depending on whether a destination is involved. Those verbs follow their own pattern and are best learned separately. The verbs in this article are the reliable ones: with them, avere is the normal choice, even when the sentence mentions a place.

Summary

If the verb describes how you move or an activity you do (walking, strolling, swimming, dancing, skiing, skating, traveling, wandering), use avere: ho camminato, abbiamo nuotato, hanno viaggiato. Keep essere for verbs about going from one place to another, like andare, arrivare and partire, and never make the participle agree with the subject after avere.